All the new openings in Sydney that made us happy, October 2024

• First Look: Innovative Greek-Australian chef Peter Conistis returns to the CBD with Eloy Eloy, his take on mesedopolio at the Bristol Arms. Expect his mom’s spanakopita and a dirty Greek martini.

• First Look: Torori, the Osaka-based chain known for its warabi mochi, is coming to the Deep Underground. Less chewy and more fluid, the mochi melts in your mouth and is topped with the flavorful topping of your choice behind a glass display case in Haymarket.

• First Look: Stop in Leon for groceries and hearty prepared meals. Will it be Iraqi dumplings or schnitzel challah? Hungarian paprika or a jar of smoked honey?

• Meet Don’s Katsu, a pop-up from the Bones team where hefty cuts of pork take center stage. The katsu set is the only thing on the menu, but it has many sides and sizes to suit different appetites and budgets.

• Song Bird marked the most intense start to Neil Perry’s 42-year career. We asked the chef if it was worth it.

• First Look: The six-part “Prefecture 48” arrives with a team of chefs straight from Tetsuya. No detail is missed in the Japanese section, where a Ginza sushi master resides and the Maybe Sammy crew enjoys drinks. Our selection of food (and drink) can also be found throughout the site.

• First service: At Joji, it’s panoramic city views and casual Wagyu dishes from top chef Paul Farag. Chef Aalia also prepares appetizers straight from the special robata, and is joined by the bar manager with a nod from the World’s 50 Best list.

• At Arta Atelier, a fine patisserie on a suburban street, the former Rockpool chef serves glossy cakes and artful choux buns. Along the way there are impressive pies, sausage rolls and boureks.

• First Look: Delta Rue, a bustling 210-seat Vietnamese French jet, makes a strong case for staying. This is the place that serves savory rice cakes stuffed with beef and turmeric fried John Dory, as well as improperly prepared bani on the table.

• First look: Beloved brewery Brissy Felons is located in beachside Sydney. We have our own vibrant beer scene, but the team brought in Corey Costello for the menu and there’s beer brewing on the dock – so we’re listening.

• First Look: Cut Lunch Deli is now the after-hours destination. The team swapped coffee for fine wine and sanga for salty snacks.

• The Shadow Baking team sets Gozney on fire in a Marrickville car park. Head to the “permanent pop-up” for favorites (Danish quiches and Vegemite scrolls with fermented chilli egg jam), as well as tarte flambé-style pizza pockets.

• While the bar at Oncore is not a new location, it is in a new era of a la carte service. Try Claire Smith’s delicious fries on their own or on the four-piece tasting menu (that’s less than half the price of the OG). Try a custom selection of cocktails to match.

• House of Papi is Team Tita’s new addition to the Filipino food scene in Marrickville. Find spam musubi, ube croutons and Filipino toast in the bright green digs.

• Tilda’s $39 Bread and Butter might be worth it. A swanky new CBD restaurant (and Tilda bar next door) has just opened at the revamped Sofitel Wentworth, and the snacks are the main event.

• Serva was never intended to be a cafe, but it had such an unusual blueberry chutney that customers wanted more. Now it’s the place in Seaforth to buy condiments, an English muffin with egg and cheese, and home-roasted coffee.

• Do you like strawberry matcha? Make a date with More in Rosebery. They have two-color iced lattes, as well as toast and bagels.

Additional reporting by Lucy Brewer, Aimee Chantadavong, Jasmine Crittenden, Dan Cunningham, Monique Foy, Alice Jeffrey and Pilar Mitchell.