Australia’s most scathing food critic says the unthinkable about a beloved brand that, after 120 years, is closing its doors forever

Australia’s most caustic food critic has divided his followers by “dancing on the grave” of a beloved local cheesemaker.

John Lethlean, who has written restaurant and food reviews for major Australian newspapers and magazines for more than two decades, has criticized King Island Dairy in his latest post.

The 120-year-old Tasmanian cheese shop will close permanently in the middle of next year, Canadian owner Saputo announced last month, leaving 58 staff behind.

The future of the business has been under cloud for 10 months after Saputo launched a strategic review of the business, which produces fine cheeses such as brie and blue vein.

King Island Dairy began production in the early 1900s and is one of the largest employers on the small island, home to 1,600 people.

Lethlin called King Island Dairy’s brie “garbage” and “devoid of any character” in a scathing post.

“The recently announced closure of King Island Dairy should not have taken anyone who loves cheese by surprise,” Lethlin began his final message.

“Cheeses have always been rubbish, and this so-called brie I have… is completely devoid of any character, unless all you’re looking for in a soft white cheese is industrial salt.

‘Horrible.’

The short and sharp video was posted alongside a rather unappetizing photo of a piece of cheese steaming in crumpled foil.

Lethlin divided fans with his stinking review.

Premium smoked fish brand Bellarine Smokehouse has poked Swiss-sized holes in its comments.

“Dancing on people’s graves after the disappearance of a business that employed half the island is not really a good option. I was raised to believe that if you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything,” writes the Melbourne business account.

“This is the largest employer on a very small island… what do you think people will do now to earn a living?”

“Perhaps you should ask questions about our federal government’s rules regarding foreign ownership of primary producers. This discussion would be much more relevant…”

The comment received 46 likes, but Lethlin also supported his point.

“I’m so glad to hear this from you. Always thought it was more bland than bland, which is actually very bland,” one person wrote.

“So long-winded in this post is also a depressing reminder of how much I’m looking forward to reading Lethlin’s in Australian (Tralese) about food and now there’s a void that doesn’t look like it’s going to be filled anytime soon,” said one diehard Human. a fan added it.

Meanwhile, a third asked Lethlin: “Is this a review of yourself?”

Lethlean relinquished his mighty hand from The Australian in 2022 and then found himself in very hot water over rude comments he made towards a waitress in 2023.

“And the head waiter, greeter and greeter, wears an outfit that threatens to reveal more than just her inexperience as she bends over to set the table,” Lethlean wrote in a post promoting his review of the Perth restaurant in Delicious last year.

He was forced to temporarily delete his Instagram due to widespread backlash from the hospitality industry and the general public.

Meanwhile, Saputo chief operating officer Lynn Cutts said the decision to close the iconic Tasmanian business had not been taken lightly.

She said “all possible options” were considered but closure was the most effective way to make Saputo more competitive in a changing market.

“As King Island Dairy’s historical roots are deeply rooted in the region, it was hoped that the strategic review would identify a potential buyer for the business,” Ms Cutts said.

“This is a unique brand whose factory is almost 100 years old.

“(Although) King Island Dairy products hold a nostalgic place in the hearts of Australians, the brand has not maintained its position in today’s hyper-competitive food industry.”

Saputo bought King Island Dairy in 2019 as part of its purchase of Lion Dairy & Drinks’ cheese business.

He confirmed that 58 staff would be affected, but “opportunities for redeployment” would be identified where possible.

Ms Cutts said Saputo would work with dairy farmers and the wider island community.

Tasmanian Premier Jeremy Rawcliffe said Saputo’s decision was very disappointing.

“We are providing immediate support to the company’s employees, farmers and the entire island community,” he said.

Mr Rockliffe said the State Government was willing to work with the company to find a new operator.

Saputo calls itself one of the 10 largest dairy processors in the world.

King Island has a unique climate due to its location, providing lush pastures for cows and unusually sweet milk.

Saputo also owns Cheer Cheese, formerly known as Coon Cheese, having bought most of Warrnambool Cheese and Butter ten years ago.