This pumpkin and bacon spread reminds a food writer of the joys of cooking.

— Do you still like to cook? I’ve been asked this question regularly throughout my career as a food blogger, line cook, and now full-time food writer. It happened again recently when I was talking to students in a college food writing course. And, for better or worse, the answer is ambiguous.

In the old days, when food and cooking were primarily a hobby for me, I would spend my free time strolling the aisles of the grocery store, picking up a few ingredients that caught my eye, and then heading into the kitchen to experiment and play. . This whole experience brought me joy and nourishment.

Over the years, my relationship with cooking has changed. I rarely cook with the same spirit of improvisation and experimentation as I used to. Developing and writing recipes takes up most of my work week, and my brain is now programmed to measure every pinch of spice I add and use a stopwatch to see how long it takes for the vegetables to soften. Meanwhile, in the back of my mind, I’m also trying to decide whether any aspect of the cooking process or ingredient I’m using would be suitable for creating an informative article to share with readers. It became difficult for me to turn it off.

Since so much of my cooking is focused on writing down details so others can easily replicate recipes, there is little room for the reckless dedication I once cherished. My brain doesn’t have much time or space to wander around the kitchen. (Right now, my dreams are mostly limited to the brainstorming process.) I think others who have turned their creativity into a career can relate.

But this does not mean that all is lost. I still find joy and comfort in the familiar steps and smells of cooking, like frying bacon and sautéing onions and garlic. Although my ability to improvise in the kitchen has diminished, these activities still make me smile because they remind me that delicious meals are on the way.

That’s how this pumpkin pasta begins. Strips of bacon, cut into pieces, are fried in a frying pan until crispy, their aroma filling the air like a beacon for hungry stomachs yearning to be satisfied. Some of the rendered bacon fat is then used to sauté the onions and garlic, along with dried thyme and a little ground allspice to add more complexity and heat, giving the dish an enticing flavour. Finally, canned pumpkin puree, fresh goat cheese, pasta and cooking water join in the fun.

Pumpkin pasta with bacon and goat cheese

This fall pasta features a sauce of earthy pumpkin puree, tangy goat cheese and a dash of allspice for warmth. Crispy bacon bits add smoke, crunch, and savory flavor to every plate.

Fine salt

8 ounces medium-dry pasta, such as fusilli or rotini

8 ounces bacon (6-8 slices), cut crosswise into ½-inch thick pieces.

1 small yellow onion (5 ounces), diced

1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

⅛ teaspoon ground allspice

4 cloves garlic, minced or finely grated

1 cup canned pumpkin puree

4 ounces fresh goat cheese (chevre)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook according to package directions until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of pasta cooking water and drain pasta.

In a cold large (12-inch) nonstick skillet or sauté pan over medium heat, add bacon and cook, stirring frequently, until fat is rendered and bacon is browned and crisp, 7 to 10 minutes. While the bacon is cooking, line a large plate with paper towels and place it near your work area. Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove bacon to prepared plate. Pour the fat into a heatproof bowl or measuring cup, then return 2 tablespoons to the pan. (Reserve the rest of the bacon grease for another use.)

Add the onion, thyme, pepper and allspice to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Reduce heat to low; add pumpkin puree, goat cheese, cooked pasta and ½ cup pasta water; and stir until smooth, adding more pasta cooking water if the sauce is too thick. Remove from heat. Taste and season with salt and pepper as desired. Divide pasta among bowls, sprinkle with cooked bacon and serve warm.

Harvest: Three to four servings (makes 5 cups)

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Substitutions: Vegetarian? Omit the bacon, use olive oil for the fat, and add smoked paprika to taste. For bacon, use pancetta or guanciale. For yellow onions, use white or red onions or shallots. For dried thyme leaves, use 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves.